A New Look for a Century Old Landmark
On a recent afternoon in central Seoul, Suzy and two friends from Taiwan ducked into Gwangjang Market for a plate of yukhoe, then wandered into Off Beauty, a warehouse style beauty outlet tucked among stalls that once sold only textiles and household goods. Their route captured what is changing at one of Korea’s most storied markets. Alongside hanbok seamstresses and mung bean pancake griddles, the alleys now feature corporate fashion and beauty shops, convenience stores, and coffee chains that speak to a new generation of visitors. Afiqah Razak, visiting from Brunei after a decade away, spotted the shift at a glance, with more tourist friendly storefronts and branded experiences.
The Starbucks branch that opened inside the market in May has become a magnet for locals and travelers, pairing exclusive menu items inspired by traditional market foods and textile patterns with the energy of a beloved hangout. Nearby, Korean and global names such as Matin Kim, The North Face, RAWROW, and Marithe Francois Girbaud have set up shop, especially on the busy western end where foot traffic peaks. The changes arrive at a place with deep roots. Founded in 1905, Gwangjang was the country’s first permanent market, a stable anchor for sellers of produce, fabrics, and hanbok. Food has long been the heart of the visit, and dishes like bindaetteok and mayak gimbap gained world attention after the market appeared in a 2019 Netflix documentary. With more than 5,000 shops and stalls and thousands of workers, the market remains a vital part of Seoul’s daily life. Many merchants say the mix of old and new keeps visitors inside longer and encourages extra spending, a boost after the challenges of the pandemic years.
Why Global Brands Are Moving In
Brands follow people. Gwangjang pulls steady crowds of Seoulites, families on weekend outings, and international travelers who want something that feels local. Its central location, a short walk from Jongno 5 ga Station and Euljiro 4 ga Station, makes it easy to reach on the subway. For retailers, presence inside such a high profile landmark delivers two benefits at once. They tap into heavy foot traffic and position themselves within a setting that carries cultural meaning. Pop up formats help them test designs and limited releases, while permanent stores build recognition and trust with first time visitors.
City policy has also mattered. Over the past decade, Seoul has worked to protect traditional markets while improving safety and visitor experience. Upgrades have included roofing repairs, brighter lighting, clearer wayfinding, better sanitation, and more multilingual signage. Many stalls now accept cards and mobile payments, and some provide basic information in English and Chinese. The goal is to preserve heritage and support small vendors, while making markets comfortable for residents and tourists who are used to modern shopping environments.
What Is Changing Inside the Market
The mix on the ground has shifted. Beyond the textile corridors, new storefronts showcase contemporary fashion, skincare, travel gear, and branded souvenirs. Pop ups like Kodak Gwangjang Market and 365iljang add seasonal variety and photo friendly displays. On the food side, craft bakeries and specialty cafes have joined the familiar aroma of griddles and broth. The western end, closest to big crosswalks and bus stops, has become the first stop for many visitors and a hub for these new concepts.
Food and Beverage Experiments
The Starbucks on site has drawn attention because of its location as much as its menu. The store highlights items inspired by the market’s food culture and textile heritage, a nod to the setting that helps it fit in with long running stalls. It is not the only fresh face. Gwangjang Market Chapssal Kkwabaegi serves hot rice flour donuts with a crisp exterior, while Cafe Onion and Abebe Bakery offer pastries and coffee for those looking to rest between rounds of shopping. For many travelers, these cafes become meeting points and places to regroup before diving back into the alleys.
Street food remains the star. Visitors crowd into narrow lanes for sizzling bindaetteok, bite size mayak gimbap, chewy tteokbokki, hearty soondae, and sweet hotteok. Many stalls cook to order, and seats often mean shared benches or stools set up right beside the action. The nickname mayak, which means addictive, reflects how quickly those small rolls disappear, not any special ingredient. Long lines form at vendors that appear in viral videos, yet equally good plates can be found a few steps away from the busiest corners.
Fashion and Beauty on the Western Aisles
Off Beauty brings a warehouse style format to K beauty, with rows of cleansers, toners, and sunscreens familiar to global fans. Shoppers search for trusted Korean skincare at friendly prices, and testers help newcomers compare textures and scents. Matin Kim and Marithe Francois Girbaud pull in younger fashion shoppers, RAWROW stocks travel ready bags and accessories, and The North Face adds outdoor clothing to the mix. For many, these stores turn a food trip into a full afternoon of browsing.
Longtime merchants are adapting in visible ways. Some hanbok and textile sellers now emphasize fabrics and custom work for special occasions while displaying a few pieces in modern cuts. Card readers and QR code menus are more common. Bilingual signs help explain portions and ingredients to first time visitors. The aim is simple, make it easier for people to try something new, then give them a reason to come back.
What Is Staying the Same
Beneath the newer storefronts, Gwangjang still runs like a working market. Early in the day, bolts of silk, cotton, and linen move through the aisles. Families visit favored seamstresses for hanbok used at weddings and holidays. Many stalls are multigenerational, with skills passed down at the same addresses for decades. Prices for textiles and basic goods often compare well with department stores, and shoppers who explore beyond the main alleys find small workshops that welcome careful browsing and conversation.
The rhythm of a visit has also changed less than people might expect. Most shops open during the day, commonly around 9 in the morning and into the early evening, though hours vary by stall. Food alleys often hum until late at night, which is when street food feels most festive. Some sections close on Sundays while others stay open, so it helps to check ahead. Cash is useful for small purchases, although many vendors accept cards and mobile payments. The variety remains the draw, a mix of sit down counters, standing snack bars, and simple restaurants that anchor family traditions.
Tourism Surge and Social Media Momentum
Global visibility changed after 2019, when the market’s food was featured in a popular documentary series. Clips of sizzling pancakes and grandmothers rolling gimbap spread across social platforms. A steady stream of travelers began adding Gwangjang to their itineraries, followed by a wave of influencers filming tasting tours. Lines grew at famous counters, and visitors learned to wander deeper into the grid to find less crowded spots with similar flavors. Among locals, the market remained a place to bring out of town friends and to meet for casual meals.
Traveler stories reflect the new balance. Afiqah Razak, back after a decade, noticed more tourist oriented shops and photo friendly displays. Suzy and her friends from Taiwan balanced classic yukhoe with a beauty outlet browse and a coffee break. Patterns like those are common now. Visitors try a mix of signature street foods, coffee or dessert at a cafe, then shopping for skincare or a tote bag. The western edge, where sidewalks are widest and entrances easiest to spot, often feels busiest. That energy has helped nearby lanes find an audience too, as people fan out to explore.
Tension and Trade offs
Not everyone welcomes every corporate logo. Some worry about rising rents and whether family stalls can keep up as attention shifts to branded spaces. Others fear that rapid change could drain away some of the market’s atmosphere. Crowds add pressure, especially during peak hours when lines snake through narrow aisles and it becomes harder to sit down for a quiet meal. A few long standing vendors say they prefer the earlier rhythm of steady local customers over today’s spikes in visitor numbers.
There are clear upsides as well. Brand tenants draw fresh shoppers who might have skipped a traditional market, and many of those people still sit down for pancakes or gimbap after browsing. Longer visits mean more spending spread across different types of stalls. The key is balance. A thoughtful mix of tenants, support for family run counters, and practical improvements such as clearer maps, waste sorting, and seating can keep the market welcoming. Many merchants are already adjusting menus, improving signage, and joining delivery or takeaway apps. The story of Gwangjang has always been resilience, and the current chapter continues that pattern.
How to Experience the Market Today
A simple plan works best. Come once during the day to see fabric lanes, hanbok shops, and the movement of supplies. Return in the evening when grills light up and the air fills with the scent of pancakes and sesame oil. Weekdays are calmer than weekends. Late morning or late evening helps avoid the biggest groups. Explore beyond the first famous counters you see. Often, a similar stall with open seats is just around the corner. Share tables with a smile, watch for hot pans, and keep personal items close in tight spaces. Ask before filming staff, and be ready with cash for smaller stalls even if you plan to use cards elsewhere.
- Getting there: Jongno 5 ga Station or Euljiro 4 ga Station are short walks to the market
- Hours: daytime for most shops, and evening to late night for many food stalls, but individual hours vary
- What to try: bindaetteok, mayak gimbap, tteokbokki, soondae, hotteok, yukhoe for those who enjoy raw beef
- Where to browse: textile lanes for fabrics, hanbok shops for custom orders, and newer stores for skincare, fashion, and travel gear
- Payments: many vendors take cards and mobile pay, though cash helps for snacks and small buys
- Official site: check schedules and notices at kwangjangmarket.co.kr/en
At a Glance
- Founded in 1905, Gwangjang is Korea’s first permanent market
- Location: central Seoul near Cheonggyecheon, close to Jongno 5 ga and Euljiro 4 ga stations
- New arrivals include Starbucks inside the market and brands like Off Beauty, Matin Kim, The North Face, RAWROW, and Marithe Francois Girbaud
- Core attractions remain street foods such as bindaetteok and mayak gimbap, plus hanbok and textile shops
- The market gained global attention after a 2019 documentary spotlight on its food culture
- Pop ups such as Kodak Gwangjang Market and 365iljang bring rotating themes and merchandise
- More than 5,000 shops and stalls provide jobs for thousands and draw steady crowds
- Hours vary by stall, with many food stands active into late night; some sections close on Sundays
- Foot traffic is strongest on the western end, where many of the new storefronts cluster
- City upgrades have improved lighting, safety, signage, and payment options while keeping the market’s heritage in view
