Hong Kong Tailoring at a Crossroads: From Global Glory to an Uncertain Future

From tailoring mecca to a quieter trade

For generations, a well made Hong Kong suit functioned like a calling card. Bankers flew in for fittings, sailors left with duffel bags full of jackets, and visiting celebrities stopped for measurements between film premieres and banquets. That era shaped the career of Benny Woo, a veteran tailor who dressed tycoon Li Ka shing and Cantopop star Andy Lau. Now 77, Woo is closing his street level shop in Sheung Wan, a decision that underscores how the city’s signature craft has struggled in a changed retail and work culture.

Woo said the shift has been stark since the pandemic, when office dress codes relaxed and remote work took hold across many sectors. He remembers a time when suits were standard among managers at multinational firms and tourists packed his order book. The demand that once made tailoring a fast moving career has thinned as foot traffic and formal dress fell away.

Before locking his door for good, Woo reflected on what changed and why survival has become hard even in a prime neighborhood where tailors once thrived.

Introducing his perspective as one of the craft’s respected masters, Woo described how expectations at work and on the street have transformed:

“Business used to be great. Managerial staff at big international companies would always wear suits. That is no longer the case after the pandemic. Even if my rent drops by tens of thousands of dollars, I still would not survive.”

He also recalled his own start. Woo came to Hong Kong from Shanghai as a child and learned the trade from his father. Apprenticeship led quickly to independence in the 1960s, a time when orders were plentiful and the pay outpaced many other jobs.

“It was so easy. If you resigned in the morning, you could start working somewhere else by the afternoon. Back then, a police officer made about HK$200 a month, while I could earn up to HK$1,000. American tourists would order more than a dozen suits at a time because prices here were far lower.”

His memories tell a larger story: the city once sat atop the world of bespoke menswear, then faced a long decline as fashion tastes, tourism, and retail economics moved in new directions.

How Hong Kong became a suit destination

Hong Kong did not stumble into its tailoring reputation. By the mid 20th century, the city had a deep pool of skilled cutters and coat makers from local families and from Shanghai, where tailoring schools and European influences had set high technical standards. After 1949, a wave of Shanghainese masters resettled in Hong Kong and fused their approach with Cantonese techniques. The result was an efficient, cosmopolitan craft that could meet tight deadlines with elegant results.

The market also pulled in the right direction. The city’s economy expanded, colonial institutions favored formal dress, and visiting travelers wanted value and speed. In the 1960s there were hundreds of shops in districts like Tsim Sha Tsui, Wanchai and Central. One report from the era said there were roughly 500 tailor shops in Tsim Sha Tsui alone. In August 1966, Hong Kong was even described as having surpassed London’s Savile Row as a center for bespoke suits. Estimates place the number of people working in tailoring during that period in the many thousands.

Craft lineages, Shanghai meets Canton

Two traditions shaped the city’s tailoring identity. The Shanghainese school, often linked to the so called Red Gang of master cutters trained in formal techniques, elevated pattern work, structure, and finishing. Cantonese shops, many of which built reputations serving local customers and visiting servicemen, emphasized quick turnaround and sharp prices. The blend made Hong Kong suits different from British or Italian ones. Jackets often featured clean lines and lightweight canvases suitable for the city’s climate. Cutting was efficient. Customers could request English roped shoulders or softer Italian inspired shaping, and a competent shop could deliver both.

By the late 1950s and 1960s, tailors also learned to go where the customers were. Shops pioneered trunk shows in hotel suites across North America and Europe, carrying swatch books, taking measurements on site, and shipping finished garments by mail order. This traveling model opened new markets and made Hong Kong a familiar name to white collar clients far beyond Asia.

The golden age, speed and service

Part of the city’s allure was practical. A well cut suit could be ready in days, sometimes marketed as a 24 hour suit for time pressed travelers, though proper bespoke still required multiple fittings. Prices undercut Savile Row and Italy, yet workmanship was often strong. Tourists and diplomats mixed with local officials and movie stars in cramped fitting rooms. The client list of storied houses reads like a handbook of late 20th century power and culture: presidents, prime ministers, and global entertainers all stopped for fittings.

Shops like Sam’s Tailor turned that history into a brand, welcoming everyone from foreign leaders to athletes. Others specialized. Shirtmakers such as Ascot Chang became famous for precise collars and hand finished details. Behind the counters were owners with decades of experience and workrooms filled with seasoned coat makers who knew the geometry of a good lapel by heart.

Speed and service defined the standard. A client could walk in for a first fitting, return the next day for adjustments, and leave town with a suit packed carefully in tissue paper. For frequent flyers, tailors kept files of measurements and patterns, then shipped new orders directly. That combination of precision and convenience built loyalty across generations.

Why demand faded after the 1980s

Several forces chipped away at the old model. Off the rack suits improved in quality, sizes expanded, and global brands multiplied. Imported ready to wear, once rare, became a staple in Hong Kong malls and airports. Many customers chose a brand label and quick hemming over the rituals of bespoke. Production costs also rose. Some shops began outsourcing parts of the process to factories in mainland China or Southeast Asia to stay price competitive, which affected how customers perceived the uniqueness of a Hong Kong suit.

Work culture shifted too. Dress codes relaxed across finance, tech, and creative fields. Casual Fridays turned into business casual most days. Younger professionals often prefer tailored separates, knit polos, and sneakers to a two piece suit. At the same time, women’s participation in the workforce grew, yet fewer Hong Kong shops developed a full custom service for womenswear. Many tailors remained focused on menswear, leaving part of the market unserved.

Tourism patterns changed. Short haul visitors from mainland China boosted traffic for years, but their shopping destinations diversified. Shoppers increasingly split purchases between Shenzhen, Hainan, Japan, and European trips, following currency swings and price differences. As high street retail fragmented, the steady stream of walk in suit buyers thinned.

Rents, tourism and the retail squeeze

Rising rents and a stop start tourist recovery have created a difficult backdrop for any specialty retailer. Government data in recent years shows frequent declines in retail sales compared with the previous year, with clothing and footwear among the weaker categories. In one example, retail sales by value fell 6.9 percent in September 2024 compared with a year earlier, then the city recorded a 14th straight monthly decline by April 2025, with apparel down again. Arrivals from mainland China have clawed back, yet many visitors come for the day and spend less than before. Local residents also cross the border to shop, taking advantage of exchange rates.

Officials acknowledge the structural pressure. In a statement addressing the downturn, a Hong Kong government spokesman said the retail outlook reflects new spending habits among residents and visitors and that challenges will persist. The spokesman also said that tourism promotion and large events are intended to support sentiment.

“The near term performance of the retail sector would continue to be affected by the change in consumption patterns of residents and visitors.”

The city’s luxury market, which fed some bespoke demand through higher spending tourists, has wobbled as well. During the protest period, Chow Tai Fook announced the closure of multiple stores in prime districts, citing tough conditions and a plan to prioritize expansion in mainland China. That shift signaled a broader recalibration. Several global brands have since reduced exposure to long leases in Hong Kong and experimented with pop up formats instead of large permanent stores. When anchor tenants rethink their footprints, smaller neighbors lose the footfall that once spilled into side streets and arcades where tailors operate.

Global patterns matter too. Across 2024 and 2025, luxury spending slowed in China and other major markets. Large groups reported weaker fashion and leather goods revenue, and consumer confidence cooled as prices rose. For a trade that depends on discretionary spending by both travelers and local professionals, these headwinds filter down to the cutting table.

Pandemic, casual dress and office life

The shock of 2020 pushed many companies to remote work. Even as offices reopened, meeting culture changed. Video calls replaced some in person presentations, and the demand for daily formal wear faded. Tailors can pivot to casual tailoring, but suits account for the bulk of traditional bespoke orders. That gap shows in Woo’s remarks about a clientele that no longer needs a rotation of work suits.

Casualization did not emerge overnight. Tech firms had already relaxed expectations, and creative industries never fully embraced ties and structured jackets. The pandemic acted as an accelerator. Today, many companies rely on flexible dress policies that recognize client facing days and back office days. Fewer people buy a set of three or four suits a year to keep in office rotation. The single suit for special occasions remains, yet that does not sustain a dense cluster of city shops.

Tourists, once a reliable stream for urgent orders, also changed behavior. Some now prefer to research online and order made to measure from digital platforms that ship worldwide. Others plan suit commissions as destination experiences with Italian or Japanese houses during travel. Hong Kong still offers strong value and speed, but it competes against a growing number of channels.

The people problem, fewer apprentices

At the craft level, the pipeline is thin. Many of the city’s best coat makers and cutters are well past middle age. Training a competent bespoke tailor takes years, often a decade to reach mastery. With fewer young people choosing the trade, shops struggle to replace retirees. One tailor estimated less than fifty highly experienced masters still work full time in the city, a figure that captures the risk of losing irreplaceable know how.

Apprenticeships used to be common, with teenagers learning from relatives and earning steady pay as demand surged. As factories and workshops moved across the border and wages in other fields climbed, working in a small tailoring shop looked less attractive. The work is precise and labor intensive. It rewards patience and craft pride, virtues that flourish when a stable stream of orders supports long careers. In a volatile market, training budgets shrink.

Some families have held the line. Empire Tailors maintains its workrooms in Hong Kong with a small team of veteran artisans. Ascot Chang built a global client base by focusing on shirts and evolving details like a distinctive collar shape for local preferences. These examples show how legacy and innovation can align, but they are exceptions rather than a general trend.

What still sets Hong Kong tailoring apart

Despite the challenges, the city retains advantages that made its name. A wide range of shops cover different price points, from simple business suits to fully hand padded jackets with refined buttonholes. Turnaround is fast. Traveling tailors still visit hotels in the United States and Europe to measure clients, then finish and ship garments in weeks. That convenience appeals to busy professionals who value fit over logo.

Quality varies, which explains why opinions differ on whether Hong Kong is still a bargain. Some shops outsource parts of the make that used to be done by hand in house. Others keep entire processes in local workrooms, charging more in exchange for craftsmanship that rivals European houses. Knowing which is which requires research and recommendations. For many clients, repeat orders build trust, and the best relationships last decades.

Bespoke, made to measure and off the rack explained

The terms can be confusing. Bespoke means a tailor drafts a unique pattern for each client, then constructs the garment with multiple fittings, often with hand padded canvases and hand set sleeves. Made to measure uses a standard base pattern that is adjusted to the client’s measurements and preferences. It usually involves fewer fittings and more machine work, which brings the price down. Off the rack refers to ready to wear garments produced in standard sizes and altered as needed. Hong Kong shops operate across all three, though the city’s reputation rests on the first two.

For travelers, the sweet spot is often made to measure with at least one fitting. It balances price, speed, and a fit that improves on ready to wear. For connoisseurs, full bespoke with basted fittings and careful handwork offers the most precise result. The key is transparency about make, materials, and time. A clear explanation builds confidence and allows tailors to match expectations to budget.

Can the craft adapt to a new market?

A revival will depend on aligning tradition with new customer habits. Casual tailoring offers a path. Unstructured jackets, chore coats in wool or cotton, and drawstring trousers can be cut with the same care as a suit while fitting today’s dress codes. Custom shirts remain a gateway product. Many men who do not wear suits regularly still value a shirt that fits the neck and shoulders perfectly. Made to measure denim and outerwear are emerging niches that fit the city’s technical skill set.

Experience also matters. Shops that host trunk shows abroad, run in store events, and partner with hotels can turn a fitting into a story. Digital tools help, from appointment systems to detailed online measurement guides for repeat orders. Some houses are investing in training programs to attract apprentices, pairing older masters with younger cutters to keep methods alive. Industry groups have begun positioning Hong Kong again as a trade hub for fashion and textiles, creating settings where manufacturers, designers, and tailors can connect and find new business.

Policy can play a role. Grants for heritage crafts, support for vocational programs, and help with workspace costs would lower barriers for shops that keep production onshore. Tourism campaigns that spotlight crafts and workshops can also diversify the visitor economy beyond shopping malls. If a new generation sees a respected career path with stable income and creative satisfaction, more will choose the bench over a desk.

The global market will set limits. Luxury demand in China remains uneven, and currency moves continue to influence where Chinese consumers shop. Yet the characteristics that built Hong Kong’s tailoring fame still exist: technical competence, speed, and a service mindset that meets customers where they are. If those strengths are applied to products that match how people live and work today, the city’s craft can find a durable base again.

What to Know

• Veteran tailor Benny Woo is closing his Sheung Wan shop, citing weak demand, high rent, and a shift away from office suits after the pandemic.
• Hong Kong became a suit destination in the mid 20th century, blending Shanghainese and Cantonese traditions and serving global travelers with speed and value.
• In the 1960s the city was described as surpassing Savile Row, and Tsim Sha Tsui alone hosted an estimated 500 tailor shops.
• The market shrank as off the rack clothing improved, production moved offshore, and office dress codes relaxed.
• Retail data shows repeated year on year sales declines in 2024 and 2025, with apparel under pressure and visitors spending less per trip.
• Officials say changing consumption patterns among residents and visitors will continue to challenge retailers, while tourism promotion aims to lift sentiment.
• The talent pipeline is thin. Many master tailors have retired and fewer apprentices are entering the trade.
• Despite headwinds, Hong Kong still offers fast turnaround and a wide range of custom options, from made to measure to full bespoke.
• Future growth depends on casual tailoring, better client experiences, digital tools, training new artisans, and supportive policies.