Rishiri and Rebun: Quiet Trails, Wild Coasts, and Fresh Uni in Hokkaido’s Far North

Why this far north feels different

Tokyo and Kyoto draw most first time visitors to Japan, yet the country’s far north offers an experience that feels spacious and unhurried. Hokkaido accounts for nearly a quarter of Japan’s land yet has less than five percent of its population, so the island’s coasts, forests, and farms often feel wide open. At the very top is Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park, a protected sweep of dunes, wetlands, and two small islands that rise from the Sea of Japan. On clear days at Cape Soya, the northernmost point on Japan’s main islands, you can look toward Russia. The latitude here is similar to Montreal, which hints at the cool summers and serious winters that shape life and travel.

Wakkanai, Japan’s northernmost city, is the gateway. It feels small compared with the neon and bustle farther south. Ferries leave the port for Rebun and Rishiri, which are only about 10 kilometers apart, but each has its own personality. Rebun is known for rare alpine flowers that bloom near sea level in summer. Rishiri rises dramatically around Mount Rishiri, a dormant volcano with the clean lines of a classic cone, often called Rishiri Fuji. Both islands trade crowds for quiet trails, fishing villages, and salty air.

This corner of Hokkaido rewards travelers who make time for slow days. Distance is part of the appeal. Fewer trains and fewer people mean starry nights, long walks where you meet more seabirds than hikers, and meals shaped by the cold, nutrient rich sea.

Where they are and how to get there

Most visitors start by flying to Wakkanai. There are direct flights from Tokyo and from Sapporo to Wakkanai Airport, and seasonal schedules expand in summer. Overland travel to Wakkanai is possible by rail and bus, but distances are long and services are limited, so flying saves time.

From Wakkanai, Heartland Ferry connects the port with both islands, and also runs the short crossing between them. The trip takes close to two hours to Rebun and a little less to Rishiri, and about 45 minutes between the two islands. There are typically two to three ferries a day in high season. Vehicles can be taken aboard with reservations. Winter brings strong winds and heavy seas, and sailings can be canceled, so keep plans flexible.

Rishiri also has an airport. In summer months, Hokkaido Air System operates flights to and from Sapporo, which makes a multi day loop easier to plan. On both islands, buses serve key sights, though service is infrequent, often every two to five hours. A one day bus pass is available on Rebun. Taxis exist but are few. Rental cars are an option on both islands, but supply is limited and costs are higher than on the mainland. Many visitors get around by bicycle for gentle touring and use buses or taxis to reach trailheads.

Rebun Island, the floating flower island

Rebun Island is often called the floating island of flowers. More than 300 alpine species grow on its hills, including rare lady’s slipper orchids and a local leontopodium. The surprise is that many of these high altitude plants bloom at sea level. The climate explains it. Summer highs often sit under 20 degrees Celsius, and sea breezes keep the air cool and clear. Flower season spans late spring through summer, with the biggest show usually in June and July, then tapering into August.

Hiking is the best way to see the island. In the south, the Momoiwa Observation Course is a favorite for casual walkers. It climbs gently to an overlook with classic views across the strait to Mount Rishiri. In the north, Cape Sukoton marks the end of the road and the starting point for the Cape Tour route that links Sukoton to Cape Gorota and Gorota Beach. Trails are graded from short strolls to four hour and eight hour routes. The longer courses trace clifftops and meadows, then drop to beaches where waves thump against shore. Cape Kanedano, on the west side, is a good place to watch for seals on the rocks when the sea is calm.

Kafuka, in the south, is the main town and ferry port. Buses connect Kafuka to Sukoton, Shiretoko, and Motochi, but gaps between services can be wide. A sightseeing bus covers highlights in two to four hours, which works well if you have a short stay or want an overview on your first day. Rebun has an airstrip in the north, though it is not served by scheduled flights. Guesthouses and small inns cluster around Kafuka and in villages near trailheads. Summer demand is strong, so reserve early if you want specific dates or a particular inn.

Rishiri Island, the mountain in the sea

Mount Rishiri rises to 1,721 meters, a dark cone that seems to float on the sea when viewed from shore. It is a dormant volcano, and its elegant profile has made it one of the most photographed mountains in Hokkaido. There are two main ascent routes, from Oshidomari and from Kutsugata. A full ascent is a big day out for fit hikers and is usually possible from late June to early October. Trails are steep, weather changes quickly, and winds can be fierce, so check conditions and carry proper gear.

You do not need to climb the peak to enjoy Rishiri. Himenuma, a marshy pond in virgin forest, has a flat boardwalk loop of about 800 meters. On still days the water mirrors the mountain with perfect symmetry. Otatomari Pond is another easy stop with grand views of the summit and reeds swaying in the wind. From July to September, guided sea kayak outings launch on clear days to explore the island’s coast, where kelp forests sway below and seabirds patrol above. Camping areas, a ring road of about 60 kilometers, and a dedicated cycling path of roughly 25 kilometers help casual visitors take in the scenery at an easy pace. Bicycle rental is common at hotels and shops, and electric bikes are increasingly available.

Rishiri in winter is a different world. Deep snow and brutal winds batter the island, and ferries may be suspended. When conditions line up, experienced skiers come for backcountry days where the mountain rises above a winter ocean. If that is your aim, go with a certified guide, carry avalanche safety gear, and build extra days into your schedule in case weather cancels transport.

Trails, cycling, and gentle day walks

Rebun’s trail network covers the island from end to end. The classic Eight Hour Course strings together meadows, forests, capes, and coves for a full traverse from Cape Sukoton in the north to Shiretoko in the south. It covers about 35 kilometers with many small climbs and descents, and it suits hikers who want a full day challenge. The Cape Tour Course packs in big sea views without the marathon distance, and the Momoiwa Observation Course is a good pick when weather is changeable or time is short. The Lake Kushu Course in the north is a mellow loop around a small lake and wetland, where grasses sway and birds feed in the shallows.

On Rishiri, the short hike to Pon-yama gives island wide views in a compact outing. For cyclists, a full lap of the ring road is a pleasant day if you catch light winds. The dedicated cycling road along the north adds a car free stretch past meadows and old fishing sheds. Winds can turn a casual ride into a grind, so rent a bike with gears or an electric bike, and ride counterclockwise if the wind is blowing from the south and west. Maps at ferry terminals and local visitor centers show trailheads and cycling routes. Services on routes are sparse, so carry water and snacks.

Seafood, kelp, and the story of uni

Cold currents and a rocky seabed make the waters around these islands rich. Rishiri kelp is prized across Japan for making dashi, the clear broth that sits at the heart of miso soup and many other dishes. The kelp grows in thick strands, and its depth of flavor reflects the mineral mix and currents of this coast. Local cooks use it in soups, simmered dishes, and ramen, and a few traditional workshops even teach basic kelp crafts and cooking.

Sea urchins feast on that same kelp. From early summer into September, fishers harvest two main types of uni, following strict limits that keep trips short and quotas tight. Visitors can taste that richness as sashimi, on rice, or grilled. On Rishiri’s west coast, Kamui Seaside Park runs a simple experience in warmer months where you can pay a small fee to scoop a sea urchin from kelp with a long net, crack it at a work table, and eat it on the spot. The lobes are creamy, sweet, and briny, which is why fans plan travel to line up with peak season.

There is more to eat than uni. On Rishiri, try ramen made with kelp broth and seafood toppings, an island classic. Atka mackerel, in season from July to September, is grilled or cooked with miso and spring onions. Tachikama, a local fish cake, appears in stews or grilled with soy. Small dessert shops serve puddings flavored with maple, sesame, or local herbs. On Rebun, look for uni bowls, soup curry built on kelp broth, and even an Atka mackerel burger. Cafes and small izakaya line the harbor towns, and almost every menu reflects seafood pulled from nearby waters.

Many locals worry about the future of sea urchin stocks. Limiting catch windows and setting strict rules helps, but pressure is real and weather patterns shift from year to year. If you join a sea urchin picking experience, follow the staff’s instructions, take only what is allowed, and keep the shoreline clean. Choosing restaurants that respect seasons and serve measured portions helps support sustainable harvests.

Weather, seasons, and the best times to visit

May through October is the most comfortable window for travel. Alpine flowers on Rebun begin in late spring. June and July are peak bloom, then hues soften into August. Rishiri’s climbing season runs from late June into early October, with the longest daylight in midsummer and crisp air in September. Cycling and short hikes are pleasant on most calm days in these months, and the seas tend to be kinder for kayak tours from July to September.

Winter is beautiful and demanding. Wind and snow can close ferries and restrict movement on both islands, and temperatures plunge. That is part of the reason the islands stay uncrowded. If you visit in the shoulder seasons in April, May, late September, or October, bring layers and rain gear. Even in summer, fog and sudden showers roll off the sea. Pack a warm jacket, waterproof shell, hat, and gloves, and keep a margin in your itinerary for ferries delayed by weather. Clear, crisp days are stunning, but conditions can flip quickly.

Festivals and local life in summer

Summer weekends bring community celebrations. On Rishiri, the Hokkaido Island Festival is a highlight, with fireworks over Oshidomari Port, grilled seafood, and stalls selling local specialties. Smaller events follow, including the Rishiri Floating Island Festival hosted by different districts, and a popular cycling event that loops the island at an easy pace with locals. On Rebun, the Umebeya Festival celebrates the fishing season, sometimes even offering free hands on sea urchin peeling for kids. The Rebun Hometown Festival brings food stalls and another fireworks display when schedules and weather allow. Dates can shift, so check with local tourism desks in Wakkanai or at ferry terminals when you arrive.

Practical planning tips and local customs

Accommodation ranges from simple minshuku guesthouses to small hotels. Many places include dinner and breakfast, which is a good option when restaurants close early. Book ahead for June to August. Bring cash. ATMs exist but are sparse, and some guesthouses take cash only. English is spoken in a few places, but a translation app helps with menus and bus timetables. Check bus schedules carefully, carry a printed or saved map, and note the last departure back to town from major trailheads.

Biking is a relaxed way to explore. Rentals are common around ferry ports and at hotels, and roadside stops offer snacks and viewpoints. If you plan to rent a car, reserve well in advance and bring an international driving permit. Watch for deer on the roads at dawn and dusk. Ferries accept luggage of normal size without fuss, and coin lockers are available near the piers.

Onsen etiquette is simple once you know the basics. Wash and rinse thoroughly before entering the hot pool. Do not bring towels into the water. Swimsuits are not used in traditional baths. Some facilities have rules about tattoos, so check in advance. Quiet voices keep the atmosphere relaxed for everyone.

Safety in the outdoors starts with planning. Trails in fog can be confusing, and cell coverage is patchy in some areas. Carry water, snacks, a headlamp, and a windproof layer, even for short hikes. In summer, use sun protection and insect repellent. In spring and autumn, carry extra warmth. Respect warnings about bears where posted, store food securely, and keep a clean camp if you stay overnight.

Responsible travel and nature protection

These islands protect rare plants and sensitive coastlines. Stay on marked paths. Do not pick flowers, even if they seem abundant. Give seals and seabirds space, and never climb over ropes or fences for a photograph. Pack out all trash, including food scraps and tissues. If you join guided activities, listen closely to local advice about tides, winds, and safety. The place names and many traditions reflect Ainu heritage. Learn a little about that history, seek out local artisans, and support small businesses that keep village life vibrant year round.

The Bottom Line

• Wakkanai is the main gateway, with direct flights from Tokyo and Sapporo in season
• Ferries run two to three times daily in high season, and the crossing between Rishiri and Rebun takes about 45 minutes
• Rebun’s flower season spans late spring through summer, with peak bloom in June and July
• Mount Rishiri rises to 1,721 meters and is typically climbable from late June to early October
• Rishiri has a 60 kilometer ring road and a dedicated cycling route of roughly 25 kilometers
• Sea urchin season peaks in early summer, with hands on tasting at Kamui Seaside Park on Rishiri
• Buses are infrequent, so plan routes carefully and consider a one day pass on Rebun
• Weather shifts fast, and strong winds can cancel ferries, so keep itineraries flexible
• Summer brings local festivals with fireworks and seafood on both islands
• Book lodging early for June to August and carry cash for small inns and eateries